Erin Go Blah No More
Originally posted a year ago it continues to be a popular post. Happy St. Patrick’s Day!
Irish ‘modern’ cuisine has come a long way from the long held stereotypes of heavy, bland and boiled dinners and other unsophisticated fare.
Climate is partly to blame for Ireland’s bad culinary rap. Aside from the pragmatic purposes that solid food offers in such a cold and damp place, the other culprit for Ireland’s lack of culinary inspiration was simply economics. Couple this with a geographic location that isn’t ideal for growing a variety of crops. It was ideal for potatoes, as we all know. History suggests that Sir Walter Raleigh, a native of Ireland, planted the first potato in his native land around 1580. Raleigh had carried the spud from his explorations to Peru. The conditions were perfect; the climate and soil ideal for its cultivation.
During the the1980s and 90s Ireland transitioned from an agricultural economy to a high-tech economy—skipping the industrial revolution altogether. The country, with a now-earned nickname of the Celtic Tiger, has one of the fastest growing economies in Europe. Due to this financial windfall, which has resulted in an increasingly sophisticated society the country, and in particular Dublin, has been transformed into an international city. An unknowing upside to skirting the industrial revolution was that it was necessary for everyone to rely on locally produced and home-grown foods from meat and seafood to dairy and vegetables, as there were few roads and factories to work in.
Today Ireland’s chefs are training in France and returning home with a new found respect and knowledge for food and menu preparation. The Irish Tourism Board’s has capitalized on this trend and coined the phrase ‘new Irish cuisine” defined as dishes that are lighter and more sophisticated, in other words, we’re not just talking about boiled meat and potatoes.
Modern Irish cuisine combines Irish simplicity with French training, with one of the basics of great cooking–the use of the freshest and more often than not local ingredients, which is all adds up to a culinary renaissance taking place in the Emerald Isle.
Fare includes distinctly Irish offerings such as river oysters, grass-fed lamb, cows and pigs as and fresh or smoked salmon. This fish is prized for its creamy flesh that ranges from pink to orange to deep red. A traditional Irish appetizer marries thin slices of smoked salmon atop brown bread. Unfortunately, due to over fishing and pollution, true wild Atlantic salmon is growing scarce and the the wild salmon season is but a two month window, so farmed salmon is commonly available these days.
Despite having more cows than people, Ireland’s cheese-making tradition developed only recently. Irish farmers have been making butter for hundreds of years. In fact, Ireland produces eight times the amount of butter then they use which may be why Kerrygold butter, in its distinctive gold foil wrapper, can be found just about everywhere around the world. It does have a strong flavor but is worth trying.
In the 1980s a group of small farmhouse cheese producers began tinkering with making handmade cheese usually with milk from their own cows, goats or sheep. Artisan cheesemakers are now all over the country with a heavier concentration in the verdant, dairy lands of the midlands, and the Atlantic coast of counties Cork and Kerry. Native cheeses include Millens, a pale, soft rind-washed cow’s cheese from South West Ireland; Gubbeen, a strongly flavored yellow cheese with a nutty aroma. And of course, all the way from Tipperary is the award-winning Cashel Blue, made from a closed herd of Fresian cows. It is made in a similar way to Roquefort but is softer, moister and less salty than other blue cheeses.
Today’s celebration in Ireland is a religious occasion where the Irish pay homage to St. Patrick, the country’s fifth-century patron saint. The theologian dearly loved animals and worshiped nature. Me thinks his eyes would be smilin’ today when he saw what was on for dinner.
Irish Food Finds
Stocks Irish dairy and delicatessen products (e.g. Kerrygold cheeses and butter, some farmhouse cheeses, bacon, sausages, black and white puddings, smoked salmon), and a whole lot more!